Chaps..
While all this advice is excellent, there have been some things overlooked here.
First of all, on a bog stock bike, you'll be looking at wheelie problems FAR sooner then traction problems. Leave the rear tire at around 24 psi, bump the front up to about 50 (especially if you'll be riding home, any higher will be dangerous on the highway).
Hub's advice IS correct on concentration. Its the most important variable.
Furthermore, don't expect to go out and set the world ablaze. Set a realistic goal. (If you are around 235 lbs suited, a realistic STARTING goal should be 10.50s). If you reach your goal, set a new one. Advance slowly until you feel the limits have been reached. And remember, you are not rickey gadson and you will not run a 9.60 on a bog stock bike.
As for actual running advice, here is what has worked for me:
First of all, do a burnout. Even if it is slight, it is polite for the cars with slicks. If you don't you'll drag water up to the line with you and cause you and others after traction problems.
Secondly, try to launch with your left foot already on the footpeg. This will take some practice, but i do it every time. 2nd gear comes WAY to quickly to be battling the G-forces to get your foot on the peg. As for your right foot, you don't need it very quickly. Wait until after you're in 2nd gear before you try advancing that foot to the peg. A study among some of the local racers has shown that you will subconciously ease out of the throttle to allow your foot to reach the pegs. You WILL NOT notice it, except in your times. Believe me, i've tried it.
Third, the launch. Try not to worry about your "reaction time". It WILL NOT affect your ET (elapsed time). But if you must try to nail a great reaction time, don't try to anticipate. Rather, wait until the third yellow bulb illuminates and then go. By the time your mind registers the light change, and your body proceeds, the green light will be lit and you will have a good reaction time. But i digress, reaction time has NO bearing on your ET.
When you launch the bike, it will be best to start out like you are leaving a stop light. Perhaps you can imagine a stoplight leading onto an onramp for the interstate. Leave quickly, but easily. As soon as your fully out of the clutch twist the throttle to the stop. This is an excellent beginner stratagy. Take baby steps from there. Try running the revolutions up to 2500 rpms, and SLIP the clutch out. Continue to raise the rpms until you reach a comfort zone. If you begin to launch hard enough the tire raises in the air, use the clutch to set it back down. Again, clutch slippage is the KEY to a good launch when you are on a stock wheelbase bike.
Finally, the pass. Set your shiftlight for 10,500 rpms. When it blinks, shift in the manner that suits you best. I always found you can apply an upward tension on the shifter (which will not harm anything) and when its time to shift, simply cut the throttle and reapply quickly. Practice this on your daily commute if you wish. Its very simple to do, completely safe for the bike, and is MUCH safer and faster then clutching your upshifts on the track. Clutching an upshift into second on the track could result in you laying on your back (wheelies).
As far as gearing goes. a stock bike should reach 4th gear in the 1/4 mile. A 16/41 (-1 in the front, stock in the back) will be around the middle of 4th. 17/45 is narrowly shorter, and you should certainly finish in 4th gear.
Keep in mind, your shift light is coming on at 10,500. The bike can rev a touch over 11,000. If you light comes on at the end of the track, DON'T SHIFT. IF by chance it does hit the rev limiter, you can shift into 5th on your next pass.
I'd be certainly happy to give more detailed information. Simply ask and i will be glad to share.
Resident Drag Racing Expert.
ZX-16 in 2010
8.64 at 158 on motor
8.28 at 173 on nitrous
Back to stock for 2011.
9.24 @ 148
185 hp pump gas
New beast sitting in the garage. 07 ZX14.. Just a bare frame... for now.